Karnataka Mountaineering association (KMA) organised Deo tibba expedition from June 22nd 2025 to July 4th 2025, 32 years after its expedition in 1993 to the same peak and our junior members took the same foot trail of its senior members who were part of that expedition.

Deo Tibba is a 6000er peak and is the second-highest peak of the Pir Panjal Mountains. It is in the Kullu valley. Also referred to as Dev Tibba by the locals due to the mythological belief that it is a meeting place for the Gods for an audience with Lord Indira – from his abode on Peak Indrasan . Hence, the name Deo Tibba. The peak is suitable for trekkers starting in the mountaineering field. Even though it is a 6000er, the peak requires mountaineering style climbing. Deo Tibba climb is graded as moderate to difficult and as such it calls for good stamina, strength and endurance. It requires a load ferry, crossing difficult terrain, at times technical using fixed ropes, crampons, ice axe, etc. Therefore, Deo Tibba is a proper mountain expedition. It is recommended only for experienced trekkers having technical knowledge. One of the most beautiful yet challenging trek/climb in the Kullu valley, the trail to Deo Tibba takes you through lush coniferous forests of pine, spruce, oak, fir, and silver birch with beautifully changing landscape. Passing through several scenic destinations like Chikka, Seri, and Tainta, we reach the base camp near a glacial mountain lake, also known as chota Chandratal. From base camp we move on to Camp-1 at Duhangan Col. The route crosses the Deo Tibba Glacier, takes a steep slope of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 mts. The climb to the col is mixed on snow, rock and ice. To ensure safety, ropes will need to be fixed for most of this section. After reaching Duhangan Col, Camp -1 can be set at the Col, or a little further at the base of a ridge known as the Pitton Ridge. This depends on the conditions then.Camp-2 (Summit camp) is set up after cutting across the glacier diagonally tackling difficult terrain, including, crevassed glacier, a rock fall area, and a ridge. After about a couple of hours and gaining around 250-300 mts in height, camp-2 is set up at an altitude of approximately 5600 mts.The climb to the summit of Deo Tibba is challenging, but the reward is an exhilarating view of vast snowfields, hanging glaciers, and lofty peaks of the surrounding ranges. The mountain has an extensive ice cap, and climbers must ascend a challenging hump of inclined wind slab snow using crampons, ice axes, and fixed ropes. Due to the technical nature of the climb, Deo Tibba is not recommended for absolute beginners. Ideal only for those with previous trekking and climbing experience and knowledge of snow, ice, and mountaineering techniques can attempt this expedition.

Following members from Karnataka mountaineering association made the attempt to climb the peak: 

1         Santhosh Devarajappa - Leader of Expedition

2        Dr Chinmayee J Thrishulamurthy – Doctor and Dy Leader of Expedition

3        Arjun Srivatsa - Team Member

4        Hebbani Shankarappa Shravankumara - Team Member

5        Nimish Kumar Singh - Team Member

6        Narayanan Vaidhyanathan Baradwaj - Team Member

7        Lakshmish Gowda - Team Member

8        Aravintha Kumar - Team Member

9        Archana Jajur Thimmaiah - Team Member

10      Dhruv Aryaman - Member - Team Member

11      VeereshKumar - Member - Team Member

12      Arjun Murali - Member - Team Member

13      Srivatsa Satyanarayan - Base Camp Manager

22.06.25

We moved from Shuru,Manali to Khanual (Jagatsukh Powerplant) HP at 8 AM with all the luggage, ration and equipment by tempo traveller and reached Khanual at 10 AM. We started trek at 10 AM through the lush tree line of the forest area and reached Chikka campsite at 12 noon, approximately 5 Kms trek distance, pitched our tents and stayed overnight. Weather was partially cloudy and got cleared in the evening, night had a clear sky. Altitude of the campsite is 3200 mts.

23.06.25       

We started trek from Chikka to Seri at 8 AM along the Jagathsukh nullah. Tree line started declining and as we crossed the moraine section, reached the slushy campsite of Seri at 2 pm in the afternoon. We found a suitable dry place having alpine pasture for camping and tents were pitched along the small pond surrounded by rock/snow clad peaks and a prominent water fall to the east. Weather was cloudy and no much winds. Altitude of the campsite is 3750 mts.

24.06.25       

Morning had a clear sky and good weather, we started the trek at usual 8 AM and followed the upstream of river where a waterfall was seen, crossed the stream and then deviated towards south and climbed the steep section towards Tainta, upon reaching the top, we crossed couple of streams, tainta campsite was having lush green pasture. We further climbed up a steep section towards chota chandertal and established base camp at 4450 mts below the chota chandertal lake. Base camp was surrounded by glacier moraines, snow fields and Dhuangan col was clearly visible with Deo tibba peak view towards the east. In the evening, we segregated equipment and ration. We packed all the stuff for load ferry to Dhuangan col for the next day. Altitude of the campsite read as 4450 mts.

 25.06.25       

Weather was cloudy and humid, 12 of our team members and support staff started load ferry of equipment and ration bags to the top of Dhuangan col at 8 AM and planned to return by afternoon to the base camp. We had put up snow boots, crossed huge glacier field and small streams. The ropes were fixed along the vertical section of rocks to climb up Dhuangan col, most sections were loose rocks and frequent whiteout was there during the climb up. 4 returned back to base camp and 8 of us climbed Dhuangan col at 12:30 pm. It started raining at the top with high winds, we pitched tent and loaded all the stuff inside and started descending towards the base camp at 1:30 pm. Soon the rain intensified and loose rock started to fall, it felt too dangerous despite all of us had proper safety gears, then we anchored to the rope all the way through the descend and carefully crossed the unsafe zones towards the safety area and it took too much time to descend considering the safety from rock fall. Rain stopped around 4:30 PM and we reached the base camp between 6 pm to 6:30 pm completely drenched and wet.

26.06.25

Today was a rest day at base camp, weather was pleasant and sunny, we dried all our clothes and equipment, sorted all bags for the further occupation of higher camps and energized ourselves with good hot food at base camp.

 27.06.25

Out of 12 members, 4 had made their minds to stay at base camp due to minor altitude related issues and further 2 more team members dropped on the morning. So finally 6 of us i.e Myself Santhosh D, Dr Chinmayee, Arjun Srivatsa, Nimish Singh and Dhruv Aryaman along with 4 guide/instructor i.e. Balkishan, Gopal, Bhimsen and Bagchand from Manali, together we planned to climb up higher camp today. Weather was sunny and pleasant, we started at 8 AM to climb Dhuangan col and occupy the camp 1 on the col. The rocks felt stable since it has dried and we could climb up the col using the ropes fixed previously laid by us for a safe manner climb. We reached the top of Dhuangan col at 11:30 AM and established camp 1 at 5080 mts altitude. Weather was clear on top of col for rest of the day. Campsite altitude read as 5080 mts.

28.06.25

Today we had decided to fix the ropes on piton ridge gully and load ferry to camp 2 below the safe place in gully. It was sunny and too much humid, we started at 9 AM post breakfast and reached camp 2 site at 10:30 AM, unloaded all the stuff for camp 2 and the summit day, we fixed 9 ropes through the piton ridge gully and fixed the ropes for around 200 mts climbing route on the gully and returned back to the camp 1 at 2 pm in the afternoon and rested for the other half of the day.

29.06.25

Weather was cloudy and snow was fairly better for movement, no wind, we started movement towards camp 2 at 5250 mts altitude and we had plans to give a summit attempt tonight. We started at 10 AM and reached camp 2 by 11.15 AM and occupied the camp 2. We had lunch at 1 pm and slept early so that we planned to have dinner at 11 pm and give a midnight summit bid. We had slept inside tent and weather started getting bad and by 8 PM, it started raining and continued all along the night. We had to give up summit bid and planned to wait till weather got better on the next day and postponed our summit attempt to the next day midnight.

30.06.25

The rain stopped early morning at 7 AM and many things had got damp inside tents, we had dry up most things before the mid night summit bid today. It was foggy and whiteout for the most of the day and we dried the things inside the tents and prepared ourselves for the night summit bid. We had pre cooked food for the breakfast, lunch and dinner. We had to boil snow for the water consumption. Filled our water bottles and kept our flask filled ready for the night summit bid. Most of the time were spent within tent without standing much and this gave slight backpain for most of us. We woke by 10 pm and dinner, we got ready with summit dress and put snow boots/crampons, were ready for the summit attempt by 11:30 pm in the night.

01.07.25

We started from Camp 2 towards the summit at 12 AM midnight. All the torches were on and the sky looked clear with absolutely windless night. The route was though the piton ridge gully for which we had already placed fixed ropes half way. We moved at good pace by anchoring safety on the rope and placed the fixed rope for the balance of the section of the gully. We made it to the top of piton ridge gully at 4 AM after 400 mtrs of climb. The horizon started getting light and we could see both Deo tibba peak to the north west and Indrsan to the North after climbing up further from Piton ridge top. Then we roped up and traversed through the ridges having slope towards BC on one side and corniced edges on the other side, then we carefully crossed the ice fall of the Deo tibba south face that leads to further ice fall on south towards the base camp. One of our fellow climbers Narayanan had tiredness and decided to stay on the safe place at 5700 mts altitude before the final summit push through the fixed rope climbing section on the south face of the Deo tibba.

 From there the 250 mtrs fixed ropes were laid using piton/snow stakes were placed till summit ridge and we climbed the section using Jumar / self-anchoring and front pointing on crampons. It took two hours for climbing up after all this arrangement and we made it to the top of Deo tibba summit at 8:50 AM and last climber reached at 9:18 AM.

 Summit Co ordinates : 32°11'42.70"N, 77°23'3.46"E

 Following members and staff made it to summit:

1.     Santhosh D,

2.     Dr Chinmayee J T,

3.     Arjun Srivatsa,

4.     Nimish Singh.

5.     Dhruv Aryaman – Support staff along with 4 guide/instructor

6.     Balkishan,

7.     Gopal,

8.     Bhimsen and

9.     Bagchand

It was sunny, clear sky, warm and windless on top of summit. The altimeter on the watch read 5991 mts and co ordinates were noted. Indrasan was visible on the north side of summit. Dhuangan valley with clouds below on the west side. Dharamsura and Papsura along with other prominent peaks of HP were visible on East side. Ali Rathna Tibba, Manikaran spires and Norbu peak were seen on the south side of the summit. We offered puja to gods by placing coconut on summit and Dhup. We took photographs and videos on all sides and stayed for 45 minutes on summit.

Standing Left to Right: Bhagchand (Manali), Bhimsen(Manali), Santhosh Devarajappa - KMA, Gopal(Manali), Nimish Singh - KMA, Dr Chinmayee JT - KMA, Arjun Srivatsa - KMA,  Dhruv Aryaman -KMA and Balkishan(Manali)

The snow started melting due to sun and we started descending and reached piton ridge at 12 noon. The weather started getting bad and it became white out. We started descending the gully by rappelling down and the fixed ropes were removed and brought down. The gully started to melt down and rocks started falling and we had to carefully descend looking at the falling rocks. We reached the camp 2 between 4 PM to 5 PM. We stayed over night at camp 2, the weather was cloudy and we packed everything for the next day getting down to BC.

02.07.25

We packed everything by 9 AM and cleaned campsite. We moved from camp 2 and reached camp 1 by 10 AM. The route was fairly easy and clear. All the debris were put in a sack we carried it down to camp 1, we removed the tent left at camp 1 and cleaned camp 1 site as well and descended the Dhuangan col. The col was dry and there were no problems encountered while descending the col. We reached the base camp at 4 PM and the celebration moods were set in the base camp and fellow climbers congratulated everyone.

We offered puja to Ganesha idol kept at base camp for the same return and all the equipment were sorted and kept inside the duffle bags.

03.07.25

We cleaned the base camp and all the debris were kept in sacks. The horse party had already reached base camp and we packed all the things in basecamp and started long march towards Khanal and had plans to reach Manali by evening.

We had carried packed lunch for enroute and descending at comfortable pace from Base camp to Tainta to Seri to Chikka and it took eight hours to reach Khanual at 5 PM for the entire party to assemble at road head to Manali.

We got driven in tempo traveler and reached Shuru at 6 PM in the evening and concluded our Deo tibba Expedition with small celebrations.

04.07.25

De briefing and return of the equipment was done and team members left as per their convenience to their hometowns.

- Santhosh Devarajappa

(Expedition Leader of the expedition)